Logs
Lighthouses are important features of the coastal landscape, performing a vital roles in the safety of mariners in all weathers. Most of the lighthouses in Scotland today were designed and built by four generations of the same family – the stevensons. This cruise is a pahrologists delight, following in the footsteps of the lighthouse keepers.
Our thanks to guest John Noorani for many of the images used in this cruise log.
Tuesday 14th July
We embarked in Oban and by evening were swinging gently at anchor in the evocatively named Bloody Bay, off the Isle of Mull.
Wednesday 15th July
Our first lighthouses — and what a pair to begin with. From Kilchoan, coaches carried us to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, standing sentinel on the most westerly point of the British mainland.
In the afternoon we crossed to Hynish on Tiree and, for the first time, landed via the beach landing craft. Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum tells the story of the Stevensons’ great tower rising from a reef eleven miles out to sea.
We anchored overnight in Loch Scresort, Isle of Rum, where the Welcome Gala Reception was held outside on the Skye Deck.
Thursday 16th July
A morning cruising the narrows of Kyle Rhea and the Inner Sound, Skye on one side and the mainland on the other.
Ashore in Gairloch, some visited the museum — home to the magnificent lens from Rua Reidh Lighthouse — while others wandered Flowerdale Glen.
We anchored in Loch Ewe.
Friday 17th July
A day for scenery lovers, cruising the dramatic coast of Wester Ross. The ship’s tenders took us ashore at Kinlochbervie, and a coach carried us to the extraordinary Smoo Caves at Durness, where a waterfall thunders into a vast sea cave.
We anchored overnight in Kinlochbervie.
Saturday 18th July
We rounded Cape Wrath — a name to conjure with, and a lighthouse to match — before cruising the north coast to Orkney. Berthed alongside in Stromness, we ventured into 5,000 years of history at Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Heart of Neolithic Orkney. Others explored Stromness’s winding flagstone streets.
We stayed alongside overnight.
Sunday 19th July
After cruising the west coast of mainland Orkney, we arrived at North Ronaldsay. A shuttle took us to its lighthouse — at 139 feet, the tallest land-based light in Britain — while others joined a guided bird walk on this wild little island of seaweed-eating sheep.
We anchored off Sanday.
Monday 20th July
Ashore at Kettletoft on Sanday for beach walks, with minibuses to the Quoyness Chambered Cairn, a 5,000-year-old tomb you can still crawl inside.
The afternoon’s cruising gave us a fine view of Start Point Lighthouse in its bold vertical stripes before we crossed the Pentland Firth to anchor in Wick.
Tuesday 21st July
A morning ashore in Wick, once Europe’s busiest herring port, with time for the museum and the town.
We then cruised south to Fraserburgh, berthing alongside around dinnertime. As it was the maiden port of call for Hebridean Princess, plaques were exchanged.
Wednesday 22nd July
A fitting finale: a short walk to the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses at Kinnaird Head, Scotland’s very first lighthouse, lit in 1787.
We cruised on to Invergordon, arriving in time for our Farewell Gala Dinner.
Thursday 23rd July
We disembarked in Invergordon — with a new appreciation for the lights that have kept mariners safe on this coast for more than two centuries.
